The Context: Sylko D311 Sunrise

 


This shade of Sylko cotton dates from the early-mid 1930s. It follows on from other shades commonly referred to in 1930s sewing magazines - apple green, lime green and eau-de- Nil. They are what I would term wedding or boudoir shades, all in use for bridesmaids' dresses, trousseau and personal items of clothing. Leafing through sewing magazines from the early 1930s, this soft peachy shade would have been ideal for the cami knickers patterns. In 1932, 'Good Needlework' advertised underwear patterns named "Rosine" and "Amber". Sunrise shade would have been ideal to run a pair of those up.

The name of sunrise also reminds of that trendy motif of the 1930s. I vaguely recall from my 1970s childhood those wooden garden gates topped with a stylised sunray design and front doors sporting similar in stained glass. But did I see them myself or is it a television memory? I can't think that they would have been common on the Sheffield Council estates that were my stamping ground.  No, I think I remember them more on screen - mugging and pouting Monty Python headscarves emerging from Middlesex front paths. Benny Hill milkmen running away from irate husbands with the sunrise gate swinging behind them. The 1930s sunrise for me is Saturday teatime telly.

And were the sunray designs meant to be a sunrise or a sunset? I think it was meant to be a sunrise. The 1930s was a mean and dangerous time which in popular culture tends to be met with symbols of positivity and forget your troubles - look to tomorrow. The 70s had disco and glam rock. The 30s has sunrises and Gracie Fields.

Were they more common in the south of England? In his 1930s travelogue "English Journey" J. B. Priestley demonstrates the divisions of England, where the South was marked by light industry and ribbon development while the North bore the brunt of the depression. All those suburban villas appearing on trunk routes out of London were prime sunrise motif material. 

So what could those who couldn't afford a garden gate or their own front door have? A reel of cotton in a trendily named colour? It was a tiny bit of aspiration as the clouds rolled in.


Have you seen my book of short stories inspired by Joyce Grenfell? I don’t think she would have approved of Rosine Cami Knickers...





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